Archive for the ‘Quilting’ Category

The best course of action to take sometimes isn’t clear until you’ve listed and considered your alternatives. The following paragraphs should help clue you in to what the experts think is significant.

After hundreds of years, quilting has evolved into such a specialized craft that had produced some of the most spectacular works of craftsmanship. Today’s art of quilt-making has come a long way since needles, pins and hoops.

The following are some of the many tools that can help drastically reduce the time in quilt-making. It is important to learn how to be fluent in their use.

Fabric markers

Pencils with soft lead are the most commonly used in marking fabrics. They leave some faint marks that will fade later. Chalk is also a good alternative because it washes out easily. It is, however, not recommended for use in detailed drawing because it is blurry.

Today’s fabric marker pens washes off in time and are better than pencils and chalks.

Long arm quilting machines

First, the bad news is that these machines are quite expensive. Unless you do enough quilting work or are into business, or have the money to burn, it is not recommended.

On the other hand, this sewing machine with a 12-foot wide frame is a quilter’s dream. Essentially, it can do intricate designs and does a month’s typical quilting work in a much shorter time.

Machine quilting needles

Modern technology had also given today’s quilters the machines and needles designed solely for quilting. They allow the use of stippling and other techniques which used to be painstakingly slow in those days.

The most popular are Schmetz needles for both thin and thick quilts. They are compatible with a lot of different threads.

Pins and thimbles

Pins are for holding fabrics together for sewing, basting, pressing, or tacking. Safety pins provide quick solutions in holding quilt fabrics during quilting.

Thimbles had been around since the advent of sewing by hand. Traditionally, they are made of silver but there are china thimbles and those made of leather. The leather kind is popular because they are flexible and more comfortable on the finger.

So far, we’ve uncovered some interesting facts about Quilting. You may decide that the following information is even more interesting.

Quilting hoops and frames

These wooden devices (which every quilter must have) are for holding fabrics together. They are badly needed when working on large projects. They keep the working material taut enough and easier to work on.

The four-sided quilting frames are for very large quilts. Round quilting hoops are for working on smaller areas.

Hand sewing quilting needles

Called ?betweens’, traditional quilting needles are smaller and stronger than sewing needles. They have smaller eyes to make it easier to pass through layers of fabrics.

They can make very small stitches and help reduce puckering.

Rotary cutters and boards

Rotary cutters are very strong and very sharp instruments to cut precise and accurate blocks of quilting materials. It is a circular blade which is very strong and accurate for cutting and trimming.

It is used with a rotary board which resets any cut or tear done to it by the cutter. The board also prevents material slippage.

Templates

In creating patterns, a quilt-maker needs templates to work with. Made usually of acrylic, templates ensure all your pattern pieces are of the same size every time, whether they have curves, angles, and other intricate line.

Other tools

Threads, with the correct color and strength, are part of your needs in quilting. They should, of course, be closest to the fabric’s color.

Scissors are also essentials in your work. Pin cushions are needed to temporarily store your needles while working. Happy quilting!

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO

Today, there are two ways to express your quilting art ? with your hands or with a modern machine. Whichever way, the finished art produced is more important than the answer to the debate about which way produces more beautiful quilts.

For machine quilters, there are still some technical problems that have to be addressed. One of them is doing your quilt all the way to the finish without any marks on it.

This means not using any chalk, water-soluble markers or any pen that risks the chance of ruining your delicate quilting fabric.

Marking template

To make a no-mark template, choose a continuous-line design that is perfect for your project. Enlarge or reduce your design taking care of leaving at least a half-inch of margin around the edges.

Here’s a tip on how to compute the scale factor for use in photocopying your design. Simply divide the desired length or width of the design by its actual length or width.

With the sum, you multiply it by 100 to get the percentage of enlargement (or reduction) of the design. Take note that the enlargement (or reduction) of your design automatically alters the other dimensions of the design.

The next step is to trace your quilting pattern on a stabilizer paper. Simply pin the paper onto your project and machine-quilt through it.

This method is for all types of continuous-line patterns, repeating or not. It is right for any quilting project: bed or wall quilts, pillows, table runners, etc. This technique is even usable on embellishing ready-to-wear garments.

Pattern play

The more authentic information about Quilting you know, the more likely people are to consider you a Quilting expert. Read on for even more Quilting facts that you can share.

Positioning the templates on the quilts may need some decisions. Generally, you can move the templates around until you like the placement.

Once you are satisfied, mark the templates accordingly so you will remember the exact position. Then, pin (or tape) the template one at a time and stitch. It is best to work segment by segment to avoid confusion and catching the paper.

Template paper

Get any lightweight vellum-type tracing paper from any office supply store. (Wax paper from groceries will also work.)

Vellum paper is good because it is sheer enough to see through, tears away easily from the stitches, and not much to clean up after. Use a permanent pen on the paper to avoid the chance of staining your fabric in case the needle hits the pattern and stains itself and brings it to your fabric.

For smaller projects, simply trace the design onto a laid-out design on a single template cut matching the pattern piece. For embellishments, or stitching on ready-to-wear garments, sew the designs from the garment’s wrong side using the template reversed.

Quilting

When quilting, start out from the center and work your way out to the border. If it is a whole cloth design, break it down into segments and work your way segment by segment, placing a template on each segment and stitch.

After you finish each section, remove the templates. It is easy to remove perforated stabilizers. The vellum paper is brittle enough to be scratched away with finger nails without damaging a thread.

After you finished your quilting, take some time off to examine your finished quilt from all sides and angles to check for marks, stray threads or other stuff that don’t belong. You can also congratulate yourself for a job well done.

There’s a lot to understand about Quilting. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

This interesting article addresses some of the key issues regarding Quilting. A careful reading of this material could make a big difference in how you think about Quilting.

Quilting is not just the simple pushing of needles and threads in and out of fabrics and come up with a beautiful craft appreciated for years. Like in any other art form, there are pieces of information a quilter has to master to be able to improve his craft.

In quilting, knowing and understand fabric grains is a plus for quilt-makers who want to excel.

Straight grain

Simply put, this is the way threads are woven in place in the fabric. This is important when quilters want to cut their quilting blocks accurately and with precision.
Ignorance in fabric grains can result in great waste of time, effort and materials.

Long threads are called warps. These are the ones that are stretched and secured on the loom. In effect, these become the fabric’s lengthwise grain, the continuous fabric yardage as it comes off the bolt.

The weft is the thread that is woven into the warps, perpendicular to the whole length.
This is the crosswise grain of the fabric.

The lengthwise grain and the crosswise grain are both called straight grain, or straight-of-grain. The selvage is the bound edge in the outermost lengthwise grain, formed when the weft thread change direction in the weaving process.

Fabric pieces cut along straight grain (with edges parallel to either warp or weft) are less likely to stretch out of shape. The interwoven threads give it extra support.

However, cuts along the lengthwise grain stretches less than their crosswise counterparts. This is because warp threads were firmly attached to the loom enhancing their strength.

Most of this information comes straight from the Quilting pros. Careful reading to the end virtually guarantees that you’ll know what they know.

Fabric Bias

A bias is a 45-degree angle cut in the fabric. (In quilting, any cut that is not parallel to the straight grain is called a bias cut.)

Bias cuts are stretchy and this can work for or against you. There are no threads to stabilize the fabric in a bias.

However, bias cuts have several uses. One, they are easy to apply as binding to a quilt with curved edges. Tubes can be made from them for shapes in appliqués, for instance.
They are also easier to be turned under for other curved shapes.

Bias edges can stretch out of shape and makes it difficult to sew accurately. Triangles have one bias edge and there is need to determine the best place for it because it is not stable. (Best is sewing them in the interior parts and with a straight grain piece for stability.)

Using straight grain cuts

Squares and rectangles are cut along straight grains to minimize stretching during handling. They are good in making borders and sashes. Moreover, they stabilize the outer edges of blocks and quilt tops.

Knowing and being accustomed to these different fabric grains would give you quite an idea on where and when to use any on your project. It can even make you quite an expert in identifying fabrics without the usual selvages or other marks.

At a certain stage in your quilting life, you can do your own fabric grain experiments. It does not take so much to know the best possible ways to achieve what you want in your quilt masterpiece.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

This interesting article addresses some of the key issues regarding Quilting. A careful reading of this material could make a big difference in how you think about Quilting.

If the quilting bug has bitten you, you may be confused about what exactly you will need for supplies for your new craft. A huge part of the fun of starting a new hobby is learning about what kinds of supplies you will need to accomplish it. There’s something so satisfying about working with tools and supplies. While the craft of quilting doesn’t technically require much more than a good sewing machine, needles, thread and scissors, there are so many wonderful supplies on the market that will make quilting easier and much more enjoyable.

Start with a sewing machine, the most basic of your supplies. Though it is technically possible to sew a quilt without a machine, and some people still prefer to do it, most busy crafters today like to use a machine. You’ll want to at least use it for piecing together the blocks for the quilt top, and after that you can choose to do the actual quilting by hand or machine. But most quilters would agree that the sewing machine is the most essential of your supplies, and so the soundest advice is to buy the best you can afford. There are many wonderful brands such as Bernina, Pfaff, Janome, and Husqvarna Viking, to name a few. Bear in mind that most quilters only need a machine to sew a straight line, so you don’t need to worry about buying one with a lot of fancy stitches.

Next on any quilter’s list of supplies is a cutting tool. Plain old fashioned scissors are good, and you’ll need a pair dedicated to fabric and one for paper only (paper dulls scissors very quickly). However, as a quilter your new best friend is sure to be a rotary cutter and mat. A rotary cutter is a much more efficient tool than the scissors you may be used to, and you can also cut pieces for quilt blocks in volume with it. You’ll need a rotary mat to protect the surface you are working on. Don’t make the mistake of putting a rotary cutter and mat at the bottom of your list of essential supplies-they will make your life easier and your new hobby much more pleasurable.

Knowledge can give you a real advantage. To make sure you’re fully informed about Quilting, keep reading.

You’ll need fabric, of course, and most quilters swear by 100 per cent cotton fabric. The array of color and pattern that cotton fabric comes in is truly staggering. You’ll also want to put thread on your list of supplies. Cotton thread is good, with a high luster and long-lasting strength. You’ll need pins for a variety of reasons. Pins seem to be one of those notions that quilters have very specific preferences for-you might prefer good old fashioned straight pins made of all steel, or T-pins, or pins with the brightly colored heads. Why not put a variety on your shopping list of supplies and experiment with which ones you like best? You’ll also need needles and a seam ripper.

Many quilters also consider a bulletin or idea board as an essential. This can be placed near where your sewing machine is set up and used as a place to pin swatches, arrange fabrics in potential color combinations, and post ideas torn from magazines.

Start your list of essential supplies today, and you’ll be a happy quilter.

Knowing enough about Quilting to make solid, informed choices cuts down on the fear factor. If you apply what you’ve just learned about Quilting, you should have nothing to worry about.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

Although basting is the least favorite task of many quilters, it is an important part in the entire quilting process. It keeps the quilt sandwich?top, batting, and backing layers?together, making sure they are properly aligned and do not slip apart during the actual quilting process. This in turn prevents puckered and sloppy quilts. When basting, the three layers are placed flat on top of each other?with the backing laid beneath, the batting in the middle, and the top over the batting?and are joined through different methods. There are four methods of basting a quilt. Quilters choose which to execute depending on the quilt size and, mostly, personal preference.

Hand Baste
The most traditional basting approach, hand baste involves hand-sewing. Hand basting is done at the center toward the outer sides using horizontal and vertical stitches across the quilt, leaving a grid-like stitch pattern. Stitches should be around three to four inches apart. A thin needle is recommended so as not to create big and visible holes in the quilt.

Machine Baste
Machine basting is faster to do than hand basting, but it adapts the same stitching pattern. Stitches should be made at the center and progress outward and should come in a grid pattern.

Now that we’ve covered those aspects of Quilting, let’s turn to some of the other factors that need to be considered.

Pin Baste
This requires a huge amount of pins. A small project may need around 75 pins, while a big one may require, at the very least, 400 pins. Like the previous methods, pin basting should be started at the center, with each pin placed 4 to 6 inches apart from each other. The last rows of the pins must not touch the edges of the quilt and so must at least be an inch away. Pins should also be in a horizontal and diagonal pattern to keep the layers securely joined. While pinning, it is best to smooth out wrinkles and press the layers flat. Although fine pins work well in pin basting, safety pins are more often recommended.

Spray Baste
When hand, machine, and pin basting all seem to be quite a task, spray basting comes as a good alternative. It is a sticky adhesive formulation sprayed over the sandwich layers. To use this, the batting must first be layered flat over the backing. Its top half must then be folded toward the backing edge and sprayed. When put back, the batting must be smoothed out to remove any wrinkle. The same procedure is done to the other half. Next, the top is placed over the batting. The top half should then be folded and sprayed. After which, the top is put back over the batting and pressed flat. The same applies to the bottom half.

When basting a quilt, it is important to have a spacious working area. Others lay their quilt on the floor, on a table, or on a similar flat and large working space. Whichever method to use and wherever basting is done, the goal remains the same; that is, to properly put the layers together without creating crumples and puckers in the quilt. With that goal kept in mind, basting is not anymore a dragging task.

You can’t predict when knowing something extra about Quilting will come in handy. If you learned anything new about Quilting in this article, you should file the article where you can find it again.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

As a craft, quilting had its heydays in the good old days when it was done by hands. Quilts then would take months and sometimes years to finish, but it was all worth it. Today, modern quilting using machines can finish a project in less than a week.

However, there seems to be a trend today for people to work on their quilts by hand, especially beginners. Speed seems to be relegated in favor of the good old feeling in the quilt-making process by hand.

Techniques

The following are a few time-tested tips in quilting by hand. Most of them were handed down by mothers to their daughters and friends to friends.

Some other techniques were copied from neighbors and other ethnic and religious groups. On their own, these communities of people developed their own beautiful quilt-making traditions and styles.

Random tips

As every true-blue quilt-makers have learned, quilting by hand needs a quilting hoop (or frame), a box needles and threads, and a steady supply of patience.

Quilting hoops and the tandem of needles and threads are standard sewing equipments. (The patience is for use in the process that could sometimes take years to complete, depending on how much time was spent on it.)

After attaching the quilt into a hoop (or frame, if it is very large), beginners are advised to start in the middle and work through to the edges. If there is appliqué used, go first around the shapes to give them a puffed-up look and make them prominent.

I trust that what you’ve read so far has been informative. The following section should go a long way toward clearing up any uncertainty that may remain.

Sew a little bit away from the line of material (about 2 millimeters) to accentuate the appliqué forms. Use small and even stitches. Never rush or you will have the unpleasant task of undoing sections that look sloppy.

For patchworks, start in the middle of the quilt and simply follow the lines of the squares.
An alternative would be to cross hatch sections or the whole quilt.

When cross-hatching, draw the lines first in soft-leaded pencils because it is difficult to keep them even at all times. Another alternative to cross-hatching or tracing shapes is stippling. This fills up entire areas and gives out a heavily-quilted texture and looks.

Mainly, this is for background filling, or even covering an entire quilt. Stippling is an organized pattern in sewing where the quilter makes smooth curves that do not meet or do a cross-over.

Materials

To keep the quilt top and the backing aligned, there is need for basting. If the two fabrics do not match up, the quilting process could be difficult, and the material could pucker up or curl.

Loosely-woven fabrics do not do well in quilting, while densely-woven fabrics and blends are difficult to work on. Go for medium-weave, middle-weight pure cotton fabrics (if possible) if you want uniform stitches, durability and relative ease in the quilting.

Threads to be used should be those for quilting. They are thicker and stronger than plain threads. For other design considerations, you can always choose what you think is best, especially if the project is simply a decorative quilt.

These are only some of the very few basics in quilting. All the other tips you will learn as you along in the happy and exhilarating process of sewing with your own hands a potential work of art.

I hope that reading the above information was both enjoyable and educational for you. Your learning process should be ongoing–the more you understand about any subject, the more you will be able to share with others.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

No quilt project is ever complete without the use of a thread. Whether to piece fabrics together or to embellish, a quilting thread is an important material. Presently, quilting is steadily blossoming as a form of art and it follows that quilting threads, along with other materials, are improving and are made available in various options. In fact, nowadays, threads come in different beautiful colors and fiber content, and thread makers are constantly developing their products to satisfy every quilter. But because of the many available options, confusion sometimes creeps in, and quilters, beginners most especially, find it hard to choose which thread to use.

There are tips that can guide quilters along. And if you are one of those who are often confused and overwhelmed by the enormity of choices, the following can immensely help in your thread selection.

1. Know the different kinds of thread. Cotton is the commonly used thread in quilting as it has added strength and can stand the test of time. It is mercerized, meaning it went through some processes and was treated with sodium hydroxide, to give it a luster finish and to enhance dye absorption. Cotton is also coated, allowing it to easily slide through multiple fabric layers. Rayon also has luster quality and is used in embroidery and embellishing.

Now that we’ve covered those aspects of Quilting, let’s turn to some of the other factors that need to be considered.

Metal/plastic thread, which actually is not a thread but strands made from thermoplastic, is also best used in embellishments because of its shiny look. Metallic in the same way gives a shimmering appeal to projects, and like metal/plastic thread, it requires a metallic needle. Polyester lends a silky finish and doesn’t fade in time. It also doesn’t shrink, which makes it a durable embellishing thread.

2. Use the appropriate threads for hand quilting and machine quilting. Hand quilting threads are sturdy, durable, and usually made of cotton. While machine quilting threads are also often made of cotton, they are less durable and strong than hand quilting threads. They can, however, make finer and tighter stitches.

3. Match the thread to your fabric. In other words, if you are working on a polyester fabric, your thread must as well be polyester. Or, if you are using a fabric made from multiple materials, choose a thread made from the dominant material. Consider also the delicateness of the fabric. For the more fragile fabrics, use silk or polyester thread. But remember that for most projects, especially those that include standard fabrics, cotton is still the most preferred thread as it can work well with a variety of fabrics.

4. Learn to read thread weight and number of plies. These are printed on the thread label and are usually expressed in fraction, with the thread weight on top and the number of plies below. Thus, in 50/2, the thread is 50wt and has two plies. The thread weight, which can be anywhere between 28 to 60, indicates how fine and sturdy a quilting thread is. Threads with 28 to 30wt are good for embellishments and decorative purposes, while those with 40 to 60wt are sturdier and are best for quilting and piecing.

You can’t predict when knowing something extra about Quilting will come in handy. If you learned anything new about Quilting in this article, you should file the article where you can find it again.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

Do you ever feel like you know just enough about Quilting to be dangerous? Let’s see if we can fill in some of the gaps with the latest info from Quilting experts.

Anyone who says that a quilt is simply a patchwork is wrong because behind every quilt is a story and behind every quilter is a storyteller. To become a skillful quilter, not to mention a storyteller, however, is not an overnight task. It involves time, patience, dedication, and most importantly willingness to learn the quilting basics.

It is quite true that it is never easy to be a beginner because you have to learn a lot of things and sometimes experience disappointments when things don’t turn out the way you intended. Self-expectations are enormous, which oftentimes are the most formidable enemies of every beginning quilter. But if there is one thing that can spell success for every beginner, it is the ability to take baby steps, and that means getting down to the very basic and following some tips for beginners.

1. Learn quilting jargons and terminology. Just as a would-be physician studies all the medical terms, you have to learn every word that is associated with quilting. Of course, you don’t do it in a day, all curled up in bed and studying. When you encounter unfamiliar words as you read quilting literature and instructions, find out the meaning at once. If you know the jargons and terminology, you can better follow instructions and communicate with fellow quilters.

2. Choose simple patterns. It is always tempting to get your hands on the intricately designed patterns; the problem is, they are often more complicated to work with. Save them for future projects. Now that you are starting, be realistic in assessing your skills. It is way better to begin with less complex patterns, those that can guide you through the art, than work on advanced patterns that can potentially exhaust you.

The information about Quilting presented here will do one of two things: either it will reinforce what you know about Quilting or it will teach you something new. Both are good outcomes.

3. Work on less complicated projects. Again, be realistic. Choose smaller projects like pillowcases, placemats, or table runners and have them as experiments. Because they are small, it is more likely to get them done. As your skills advance, you can do bigger projects.

4. Decide whether to hand quilt or machine quilt. Hand quilting is an old method of quilting and is preferred by many quilters because of its traditional and recreational appeal. It gives quilters more control of the project, an avenue for socialization especially if the quilt is done by a group of people, and a greater sense of hand work. Machine quilting, on the other hand, is faster and easier to do and creates more identical and consistent stitches. It works to your advantage if you know to do both. There are times you may want to hand quilt or machine quilt an entire project, and other times when you feel like hand quilting a part, say the top, and machine-stitching the rest.

5. Learn the different stitches, styles, and techniques. The heart of quilting is in piecing and stitching strips and layers of fabrics, so you have to know how to do these. Take also some time to develop your cutting and basting skills.

6. Avoid being too critical. Remember, you are just starting, and it is very likely that the stitches are less than perfect. It’s okay. Don’t fret over errors; instead, relax and enjoy the quilting process. As you move from project to project, you will discover that your consistency and precision develop. As with anything, practice makes perfect. And before you know it, you have already mastered the quilting basics and moved on to becoming an expert quilter.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

You should be able to find several indispensable facts about Quilting in the following paragraphs. If there’s at least one fact you didn’t know before, imagine the difference it might make.

Originating from the French word appliquer, appliqué means to ?put on.? It is a quilting basic technique that includes cutting pieces of fabric of various designs, sizes, and shapes and sewing them onto a background material. Appliqué quilting expresses a quilter’s artistic potentials and yields beautiful, pictographic quilts. However, some quilters often think that appliquéing is so hard a technique and therefore should be left to the master quilters. How afraid they are to try their hand on it. The truth is, appliquéing is not as difficult as people imagine. It is quite easy to learn and, if mastered, opens so many creative quilting possibilities.

So how do you exactly make appliqués? Here’s how:

1. Prepare the design pattern. You can do this by tracing the design you want on to a freezer paper using a marker. Note that you have to draw the reverse side of the design. Then, cut out the pattern. Do not add a seam allowance.

2. Place the shiny side of the cut-out freezer paper on the wrong side of the fabric. Next, press it with a hot iron. Take note: press. Do not slide the iron over the freezer paper. Note that the freezer paper will adhere to the fabric, but it can be peeled off easily.

Think about what you’ve read so far. Does it reinforce what you already know about Quilting? Or was there something completely new? What about the remaining paragraphs?

3. Cut out the fabric following the pattern of the freezer paper. Make a seam allowance of about 1/8 to1/4 inch. Then, fold the seam allowance over the edges of the pattern. If you are dealing with curves, you have to notch the allowance all the way around to make smooth, rounded curves. Again, press the seam allowance. After which, remove the freezer paper.

4. Begin sewing the appliqué pieces to the background fabric. Remember to first sew the bigger pieces onto which you will lay and stitch the smaller pieces. For example, if you are doing a butterfly appliqué, first stitch the wings, then follow it with the body. You have to keep a stitching order in attaching appliqué pieces.

5. Make small stitches. Whether you do hand or machine appliqué, it is important to make small stitches because they prove to be stronger and less visible in the quilt. You can use several kinds of stitches in appliqués, although the most widely used is blind stitch. If you are using a machine, you can do zigzag stitch, satin stitch, among others.

6. Be careful with curves. Approaching curves is relatively easy when hand-sewing. It can be quite a concern, though, when using a machine. To perfectly machine-stitch curves, decrease your speed, make a few stitches, then put the needle down and slightly reposition the fabric. Doing so will avoid gaps in between stitches. Make fewer stitches and do more fabric repositioning as you approach tighter curves.

Your first attempt at appliqué quilting may not produce your desired result. But don’t be disheartened; rather keep this as your motivation to do better each time you do appliqué. Before you begin with actual appliquéing, it would help to get a few scraps and practice your stitching. What you need to watch out for are puckered background, uneven stitches, and sloppy appliqué pieces.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO

Are you looking for some inside information on Quilting? Here’s an up-to-date report from Quilting experts who should know.

Quilts (and most ideally all the quilting materials before they are made into quilts) need to be washed. The only exceptions to this are those antique quilts good only for exhibitions and quilts that are not in good condition.

The advice of washing your quilt materials (main fabrics, batting, threads) before they are assembled into a quilt is important if you are not sure about them.

Washing the fabrics first before incorporating them into a quilt releases any excess dye from the fabric. (Colors in new fabrics tend to run at the first laundry sessions.) Washing also gives the fabric the chance to stretch into its natural ?worn? shape.

Fabrics

The first consideration on washing is the fabric or fabrics your quilt is made of. Traditionally most quilts are made of 100% cotton or of cotton mixes that are very close to 100% cotton.

This is because cotton is a natural fiber, hardy and available in so many varieties of patterns and colors. (It is also the top choice in making clothes.)

Check next what type of material the thread and batting of your quilt are made of. Once you know, you would know the detergents to use and how to treat your quilt in the laundry process.

Detergents

Use only an unscented liquid-based, color-free detergent in your quilts. Do not use any detergent that has fabric softeners in them. Fabric softeners can damage the fabric fibers as can scents and dyes.

NEVER use bleach on the quilt. This does not only ruin the color, they will damage the fibers of the fabric as well.

Is everything making sense so far? If not, I’m sure that with just a little more reading, all the facts will fall into place.

Carefully read the detergent’s composition and follow religiously the instructions well. They may be harmless, but some additives in some can be harmful to the fabric when used regularly.

Washing proper

Fill the washing machine with warm water, never hot water. While it is filling up, add the detergent. Stir to make sure the detergent is fully dissolved.

Put in your quilt. Do the regular warm/cold water wash cycle.

Put the quilt in the machine and select a regular warm/cold water wash cycle. Finally, do the cold/cold water wash cycle minus the detergent.

If your quilt is made of delicate materials, air-dry it in an area out of the sun. This will keep the colors intact because sunlight can fade fabric colors.

Let your quilt have a regular tumble-dry if it is made of good quality fabrics. Do not wring your quilt. It might cause a permanent crease and stresses the quilt’s materials.

Hand washing quilts

You can do hand washing of your quilt if you are up to the hard work. Do it in a large bath tub. Fill it with enough water to submerge your quilt fully with an inch or two of water allowance.

Again, make sure the detergent is fully dissolved before stirring the quilt in the water with your hands. Let the machine do the laundry if you are not up to it.

When you are confident that your quilt can be washed and your fabric can take the stress, then you can have the peace of mind that your quilt will be in good condition for years.

Hopefully the sections above have contributed to your understanding of Quilting. Share your new understanding about Quilting with others. They’ll thank you for it.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO